BY JAMIE KNEE | JULY 30, 2024
Playing Pétanque and sipping wine from Entre-Deux-Mers
Having just returned from hosting an enchanting wine river cruise in the heart of Bordeaux, I am brimming with stories and memories. This famed wine region, celebrated for its luxurious offerings, revealed itself in all its glory as we navigated the picturesque Garonne and Dordogne rivers. Each bend in the river opened a new chapter in the Bordeaux wine story, and I was privileged to share this extraordinary experience with fellow wine and travel lovers.
On the Left Bank, where the Garonne River meets the Atlantic Ocean, lies a region steeped in viticultural history and natural beauty. This area, with its gravelly soils, is renowned for producing wines of power and structure – think cabernet sauvignon. Our journey began here, in the Médoc region, home to legendary châteaux with centuries-old history. While the grand estates were awe-inspiring, it was the smaller, family-owned wineries that truly captured our hearts. Their wines, rich with the essence of the terroir, offered a more intimate connection to the land and its traditions.
Crossing to the Right Bank, we discovered a softer, more seductive side of Bordeaux. The Merlot-dominated wines of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, with grapes planted in clay soils, were a revelation, and some of my favorites. We biked through picturesque vineyards, sampling wines that ranged from elegant and refined to bold and opulent. The medieval town of Saint-Émilion, with its charming architecture and underground cellars, provided a magical backdrop to our wine-filled days, enhancing the allure of every sip.
The Entre-Deux-Mers region, aptly named “between two seas” for its location between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers, is acclaimed for its crisp, dry white wines. This picturesque area boasts charming wineries that craft delightful blends of sauvignon blanc and sémillon, striking a perfect balance of fruit and acidity. These refreshing wines paired exquisitely with the region’s fresh seafood and vibrant cuisine, making our culinary adventures as unforgettable as the wines themselves.
Beyond the vineyards, Bordeaux itself was a feast for the senses. We strolled along the riverfront, admiring iconic landmarks like the Place de la Bourse, Grand Théâtre, and the Miroir d’Eau, a 37,000 square foot reflecting pool. One of the trip’s highlights was a visit to La Cité du Vin, best described as an amusement park for wine lovers. This stunning architectural marvel offered a fascinating exploration of the world of wine through interactive exhibits, immersive films, and wine games. The rooftop tasting center provided breathtaking views of the city while we sipped on a variety of wines from around the world.
Another gem was the Bordeaux Wine School, where I took wine classes in 2019. During the visit, we explored their wine bar, Le Bar à Vin. Located in an 18th-century building opposite the Grand Théâtre, and renovated by architect Françoise Bousquet, this wine bar exuded elegance and intimacy. The contemporary furniture, combined with a beautiful tapestry by Marc Saint-Saëns on the theme of the vine, created a stunning ambiance. The extensive wine list was dedicated entirely to Bordeaux’s many appellations, and generous pours of delicious Bordeaux wines for around 5 euros was simply unbeatable.
A favorite part of our journey included a delightful visit to my friends Nathalie and Jérôme’s winery, Château Boutinet, on the Left Bank in Villegouge. We explored the vineyards, petted the sheep, and tasted in their yurt, which serves as both a tasting room and a yoga studio. They produce several wines, with merlot being their specialty, but one of my all-time favorites is their clairet. Made of merlot, this unique Bordeaux wine is dark pink in style, full-bodied, and deep-colored – a specialty of the region that showcases Bordeaux’s versatility. I’ve been eager to see more of this wine in the States.
As we cruised the Garonne and Dordogne rivers, we joined the vibrant Bordeaux Wine Festival (Bordeaux Fête le Vin), a joyous celebration of the region’s rich winemaking heritage held every June. This event offered a legendary wine tasting tour, taking us through 80 appellations with expert insights at every stop. We enjoyed unique tasting workshops and master classes at the Bordeaux School, indulged in yummy crêpes at the Gastronomic Village, and explored historic tall ships like the Belem and El Galeón. The festival was a fantastic opportunity to reconnect with winemakers I’ve met on past visits, and through my Petite Wine
Traveler platform.
For those of you who think Bordeaux is out of your budget, an important point to highlight is that 95% of Bordeaux wines are not classified, meaning they aren’t all from fancy estates and aren’t super-expensive. Bordeaux offers great value if you know where to look. With over 7,000 estates producing more than 500 million liters of wine annually, there are plenty of affordable and delicious options to explore. With some great deals to be had locally at Montecito’s Bottle Shop or The Liquor & Wine Grotto.
For wine lovers, Bordeaux is a destination that offers endless discovery and enjoyment. This region, with its rich history, diverse landscapes, and world-class wines, continues to captivate and inspire me. As a host of wine excursions around the world, I am always excited to explore and share new wine regions. Join me on the next adventure, and let’s savor the finest wines together.
