Wine Travel

By Jamie Knee, Petite Wine Traveler

I’ve just returned from the captivating landscapes of North Macedonia, brimming with excitement to unravel the hidden marvels of this Balkan gem. Picture a land where time slows down, where over 50 lakes sparkle like gems against a backdrop of 34 towering mountains, ranking seventh among the 10 most mountainous countries in the world. Traversing this off-the-beaten-path wine and foodie haven was an odyssey unlike any other – an exploration through landscapes whispering tales of tradition, and wines that painted the skies with their vibrant flavors. Life in this southeastern European paradise beats to a different drummer, with historical ruins and unchanged villages creating a natural paradise of vineyards, mountains, lakes, and rivers. 

While my journey to the region was aimed at exploration, my main quest as a Global Wine Communicator lay in unraveling the secrets of its wines. Nestled in the heart of Macedonian winemaking is the region of Povardarie, a picturesque expanse marked by rolling hills and lush valleys that cradle the Vardar River. Amidst the cities and villages tracing the river’s course, North Macedonia has quietly mastered the art of winemaking for centuries. This enigmatic country harbors a winemaking tradition, a cherished European secret veiled within its breathtaking landscapes. Spanning over 4,000 years, the legacy of cultivating grapes and crafting wines in this region ranks among Europe’s oldest. Through the ages, during the Byzantine and Roman empires, the Ottoman era, and into the modern day, Macedonian winemakers have meticulously refined their technique, harnessing the distinctive terroir and climate to produce exceptional wines. North Macedonia remains a hidden gem within the pantheon of European wine countries.

The exploration of lesser-known wine trails unfolded like a storybook, stopping at picturesque vineyards that whispered tales of generations of winemakers. Engaging with passionate vintners revealed not just their craft but also the narratives behind ancient grape varieties thriving in the Balkans. Each stop offered a new chapter, each winemaker a custodian of their land’s vinicultural secrets. One of the most intriguing aspects was the fusion of tradition and innovation in winemaking techniques. Speaking with visionary vintners illuminated the evolution of the contemporary Balkan wine scene. Their commitment to honoring tradition while embracing modern approaches showcased a dynamic and evolving industry.

Among the most common wine varieties in North Macedonia are vranec, temjanika, smederevka, rkatsiteli, zilavka, and grashevina, each bearing an exotic allure largely unknown to most of us here in the U.S. However, at the heart of my oenological adventure stood the star of North Macedonia, the indigenous vranec (pronounced vranitz) grape. My journey was an exhilarating quest to unravel the secrets and nuances hidden within this exceptional grape variety. From vineyard to glass, I eagerly immersed myself in the vibrant tale of vranec. This red varietal serves as a testament to the region’s winemaking prowess, boasting a flavor profile that evokes the boldness of cabernet, the spice of syrah and the jammy cherry flavors of zinfandel, with a rugged charm all its own. Picture a symphony of dark berries, a dash of spice, and a hint of earthiness dancing on your palate, embodying the very essence of the land in every glass. Its robust flavors and ability to mirror the terroir emerged as defining traits.

Vranec finds a natural companionship with local dishes such as hearty Macedonian pasta, shopska salad, or a slice of green fig preserve pie, all beloved favorites. Macedonian cuisine, strongly influenced by Turkish flavors, offers an array of fresh and flavorful vegetables, an assortment of cheeses, and the exquisite tenderness of Ohrid trout. Salads burst with freshness, abundant with juicy red tomatoes, the most widely cultivated vegetable of the region.

Embarking on an unforgettable journey through North Macedonia’s wineries was an oenophile’s dream. Tikveš Winery is the oldest and largest winery in Macedonia. It was founded in 1885, has award winning wines, and is arguably the largest winery on the Balkan Peninsula. Tikveš Winery was also one of the most important wineries of the area formerly known as Yugoslavia. There is also a region called Tikveš, which can get a bit confusing. 

At Chateau Sopot, the Lunch & Wine Tour was a stroll through a winemaker’s paradise, with a tasting room restaurant surrounded by over 250 acres of breathtaking vineyards that specialize in Rhine Riesling. But what truly made this experience unforgettable was the warmth and hospitality of the people behind each pour. The winemakers didn’t just share their craft; they opened their hearts, inviting us to savor not just the wine but the stories woven into each glass.

Next stop, Bovin Winery. Their fusion of tradition and innovation amazed me, blending history with modern techniques seamlessly, with bold vranec that rivaled the zinfandel of Northern California. Yet, amidst the cutting-edge methods, it was the welcoming spirit of the proprietor that made every sip taste even more exceptional.

Then, a delightful surprise awaited at the Wine Museum Kavadarci, where the history of the region came alive through music, dancing, and an animated tale. Here, the hospitality wasn’t just about sharing knowledge; it was about enveloping visitors in a heartfelt embrace of Macedonian culture and warmth. Thereafter, I attended a meeting with the Association of Macedonian Family Wineries. They are a testament to the burgeoning family wineries in the region. I was impressed by their camaraderie, and willingness to collaborate to make the wine region shine. Amongst passionate winemakers like Popov Winery and Imako Winery, the dedication and stories shared were as rich as the wines they produced. Their hospitality knew no bounds, leaving an indelible mark on my wine odyssey.

Finally, a visit to Chateau Kamnik felt like uncovering hidden treasures, while dining and tasting in a chateau high on a hilltop in the heart of North Macedonia. The breathtaking scenery was matched only by the genuine kindness and extravagant dining experience. The magnums of library wines poured throughout the evening made for an unforgettable experience.

So, dear wine enthusiasts and intrepid travelers, North Macedonia beckons – an escapade brimming not just with landscapes and wines, but with heartfelt connections and hospitality that will leave an everlasting mark on your soul. Bring your curiosity, your taste buds, and an adventurous spirit. Here’s to savoring every sip and reveling in the wonders that North Macedonia graciously unveils!